21 -22 September. Serengeti and Ngorogoro National Parks.

Safari girls! Overlooking the Ngorogoro Crater.

 One of THE BIG FIVE ticked off....Nyati: buffalo

 Pundamilia .... Zebra crossing!

 "Quick Evie get a pic... 

....You don't usually see kiboko with their mouths open or their heads high above water...."
but we were lucky to see many of them and a herd of them grazing by one of the hippopotamus water holes!

 Setting up camp in the middle of the Serengeti. We both got up together to go to the toilet during the night and were treated (I don't think Evie would have used this word!)to meeting a hyaena roaming the camp ground. I wasn't too worried as they are quite timid and known as predators who prey on the catch of other predators. They are relatively slow sprinters and this one was more scared of us than we were of it...(although I'm not too sure Evie would agree with this!)

 Another beautiful sunrise out in the savanna of the Serengeti.

Loving it!!!

 Cheetah: Duma: Cheetahs are distinguished from leopards by the distinct black 'tearmarks' running from the inner corners of their eyes to the edges of their mouths. we watched this one as she laid low, tensed then finally sprinted towards her prey....an unsuccessful attempt but exciting to watch!

 5 star dining at Simba camp on the Ngorogoro Crater rim. This was the night we were treated to Lawrence's sensational chipsie mayai...together with a multitude of gourmet dishes!

Sporting the warm gear early morning in the Crater.

 The vastness of the Crater

 Getting a good view through my binoculars as Richard and Lawrence prepare our truck for the Crater safari.

 Grey Crowned Cranes...found in abundance in NC

Another one of THE BIG FIVE...

Chui: Leopard nonchalantly making his way towards our truck! 

How lucky were we?!!

The Leopard has a prominent necklace of spots and its tip is pure white. Something we didn't know but were certainly shown as wondered passed and stopped to peer in at our truck!

We saw an abundance of beautifully colored and interesting birds throughout the whole safari.  This one is named the Secretary Bird as it's white shirt and black pants were the uniform of early secretaries so Richard told us!

Thompsons Gazelle....Evie's favourites which reminded her of the little lambs back home on the farm because of the way they frisked and jumped around furiously wagging their tails.

 Having left camp early to witness a beautiful sunrise and discover the joy of sighting many of the big game, we stopped for chai out in the open savannah.

 Back for to camp for lunch as Evie sheltered from the unrelenting sun and rang her family in Aus.

 We were treated to watching these three chui prepare for a chase... fail....then retire, exhausted, to the limb of this sausage tree.

 Simba: lions trying to keep cool in the mud. The center lion is wearing a tracking collar attached by conservationists trying to understand their movements to assist in ensuring their longevity in Serengeti.

 Evie, me and Lawrence, our Gourmet Chef arriving at Simba Camp on the Crater rim!

 A very different scene from when I visited in April. The waterhole is very small but the flamingos were still there. The zebras were a noticeable absence from this water hole this visit.

 Happily looking taller than Evie!

 Chai in the truck so we didn't end up losing it to the local wildlife!

The only green oasis in the Crater....and a family of Hippos. 

This was one of my favourite scenes as the contrast in colors and textures was stunning and the ambience was serene.

Photos seldom do these intangibles justice!

THE BIG FIVE AFRICAN GAME

The phrase Big Five game was coined by white hunters and refers to the five most difficult animals in Africa to hunt on foot. The members of the Big Five were chosen for the difficulty in hunting them and the degree of danger involved, rather than their size.

The collection consists of the

Lion: simba = TICK 1...African Elephant: tembo = TICK 2....Cape Buffalo: Nyati =TICK 3....

Leopard: chui = TICK 4......Rhinoceros: faru = TICK 5!!!! 

HONGERA ...

We were so happy to be able to tick off #5! We didn't think we were going to see the Black Rhino but  Richard had a good feeling so persisted and continued searching until word got out that they had been sighted....Off we sped, together with the 50 or more other trucks in NC to be treated with a viewing of TWO of the almost extinct Black Rhinos remaining in the Crater!

Many, many tourists and trucks...and us!!!... reveling in the fun and excitement of sighting the Black Rhinos.

So often Evie and I reminisced about places back home in Australia or at "Y-Worry", our childhood farm, brought to mind because of the similarities to the areas we travelled through on our safari. The colors and lanscape often reminded us of Albert Namatjira's Australian paintings.

There were so many scenes resembling outback Aus and our beautiful country in her long hot summers or drought seasons. It made me rather homesick! 
Oh but so nice to be homesick whilst sharing such a wonderful adventure with my sister, Evie!!!

19 September: A Maasai Boma and the Olduvia Gorge in The Great Rift Valley

 Having our personal tour guide meant that we could design our safari as we went. As we were in the Maasai Steppe, Evie asked whether we could visit a Boma (village)....It was rewarding and exciting to be amongst these amazing people again and really appreciate how they live. This boma catered for tourists but was not so commercial  as to interfere with its authenticity.We loved the opportunity to watch the men jumping in traditional dance and then to meet the women and dance with them .... adorned with our own neck collars!

 Having watched the women during my previous boma visit, I knew how to roll my shoulders to get the collar to move rhythmically with the dance. I watched them carefully to stay with the rhythm...lots of fun and laughter!

 We are  dancing in this pic!

 My limited Swahili gave me an opportunity to actually talk with the women. They were so warm, friendly  and appreciative of my efforts to communicate.

We visited the inside of an individual hut constructed of wood, covered with mud. We learned that the soil is often mixed with cattle dung and urine to make it waterproof. The houses are built in a circle and the cattle and goats(their measure of wealth and to legalise marriage and source of food: milk and blood, their staple diet.) are kept in the inner circle at night to protect them from predators.

it was time to bargain for our goods! A typical tourist things to do but it meant the money was going directly to these people so I didn't mind at all! Fortunately I knew the language and bargained hard but Evie had been separated from me for this trade and paid mzungu mtali bei (white tourist prices)! Sorry Evie but I didn't realise you were being challenged!

Uncharacteristically, this Boma, having benefitted from the tourist dollar, has built a school for their younger children. when we entered they sang us the Tz National anthem and shyly watched us as we approached them. I went to the boys on the left and asked each one of them what their name was. Again they were surprised that I spoke Swahili and laughed and giggled as they spoke with me. I'm not sure how much learning happened that day (or any day actually) but the potential is there for them to be educated. I hope it isn't just for tourist attention!

OLDUVAI GORGE

The layers of volcanic ash deposited in the Olduvia gorge can be seen by the different colors. The layers were laid down in consecutive eras holding valuable archeological evidence of the proposed Evolution of Man

Olduvai Gorge is in the Ngorogoro Conservation Area and the history it bears fascinates me.
It's floor was formed about 2million years ago when lava poured into the area. A large saline lake was formed but fault caused tilting resulting in river action carving out a gorge. The formation of the gorge exposed the layers and the wealth of archaeological evidence within them.

Evie is standing in a cast of footprints (Laetoli Footprints) which were amongst the multitude of fossils and stone tools discovered during 1931-1959 by Louis and Mary Leakey. These finds support evidence of hominids existing 5 million years ago. 

5million years ago: The female skeleton recovered in Ethiopia and became known as 'Lucy' = 450cc brain. The Laetoli footprints of two adults and a child were from the same era as Lucy.
3.75 - 1.7 m yrs ago: The skull and bones of 'Nutcracker Man' affectionately named 'Boise' were uncovered.
1.7M yrs ago: stone tools found in NCA were used by 'Handy Man' Homo Habilis brain 600cc as well as by 'Upright Man' whose brain was larger 900 cc and existed around 1.5m yrs ago.

The Laetoli footprints have been covered up again to preserve them but we spent productive time on sight discovering the history listening to the tour guide and browsing in the comprehensive Museumwhich shows an excellent account of the discoveries in NCA.

On Safari...19 - 22 September. Day 1: Zanzibar - Arusha - Tarangire - Manyara

Confusion with our plane tickets for the flight from Zanzibar to Arusha resulted in having to touchdown on Pemba (which I was happy about as I hadn't been there yet...and can now legitimately say that I have!!) The flight took us within sight of Kilimanjaro at which time she uncharacteristically revealed her summit. What a treat!

Having landed safely, much to Evie's relief, we were met by Richard, our tour guide and given a bottle of wine and chocolates! Bariki, my friend and founder of One World Safaris (www.oneworldsafaris.com), runs a very professional business with a personal touch....(I wonder if he does this for all his clients!) It was he who organised Phyl and my visit to the Maasia circumcision ceremony back in June. 10% of all his profits goes back into supporting the Maasai community and assisting them with alleviating their challenges.

 Our first boxed lunch...gourmet. YUM!

 Maasai Market Day.

The first National Park we entered was Tarangire. Within the first half hour we had seen lions, elephants, zebras, wildebeest, giraffes, amazing birdlife... to name just a few. Evie thought this was what it was going to like the whole way! I had to warn her that she was VERY LUCKY to have such a feast so quickly!...But, yes, there certainly was plenty to see in a relatively small area. They wildlife had come to seek water which was certainly advantageous for tourist viewing!

 Pundamilia

Evie getting into safari mode

 Tembo tearing the wood off the acacia tree and using it as a toothpick.

(Pole tena...anticlockwise doesn't want to happen atm!)

We slept in tents during the safari. This one we didn't have to erect as it was permanently set up. The staff greeted us as old friends and our stay was peaceful and relaxing, amongst a handful of fellow travelers. This camp site was near Manyara; set as you climb over the Rift Valley. We experienced our first meal from Laurence our chef. We learned that both he and Richard had been with Bariki's business for its four years of existence. Both our guide and chef excelled in the delivery of their expertise. Lucky us to have this personalised professional attention!

Yeye ni dada yangu..natoka Mwaustralia...She is my sister from Australia!

 Evie finally arrived....minus her luggage! (the start many little challenges typical of life here in Tz) But....we didn't care....she was actually here in Tanzania!! off one plane and onto another...I didn't realise she didn't really like small planes..Arriving safely we met Wendy and Hazel for sundowners and Indian dinner at Monsoon.
September 16 had finally arrived but Evie's 1 hour turnaround in Doah was too quick for the bag handlers to transfer her bag.... so we had to go shopping! (after breakfast at Archepalego where I had had Christmas breakfast with Gemma and the girls on Christmas Day) It was the quickest, successful shopping trip I have ever done with Evie. It also meant she got to experience the maze of haphazard roads and myriad of dukas atypical of Stonetown, Zanzibar!

Karibuni Tanzania dada yangu tamu...

Welcome to Tz my Darling sister.

 Evie tucked up in her first bed of many we were to experience during the week... protected from the mosquitoes. We stayed at Karibu Inn right in the heart of Stonetown

 Enjoying the ambiance while waiting for breakfast @ Archepelago

 Archepalego upstairs on left; Monsoon on right.

Evie in her new summer gear, Hazel & Wendy. 

We farewelled Hazel as the three of us headed north to relax on the beautiful beach of Kendwa.

 Evie chatting to her family in Aus from our balcony overlooking our retreat at Kendwa Breezes

 I caught up on some much needed sleep whilst Evie and Wendy took the dhow around to Nungwi, visited the turtles and enjoyed some snorkeling.

 

(pole sana Evie...I can't seem to get this pic to turn clockwise!!...)

 For two days we wined, dined, chilled out, read, slept, had a massage, swam...chilled out some more in preparation for our safari.

2 October. Mwaka moja kabla...one year ago....

Niliandika mwaka moja kabla: One year ago I wrote:

…….As I dragged myself away from Gem....one of the hardest farewells I have done....my eyes were leaking rapidly as I walked through the International doors……..

Leo mwake uliopita nili kufika hapa Tanzania!

Today, last year, I arrived here in Tanzania!

Hongera!

I have been blessed with so many rewarding experiences;  shared my life with many, many wonderful people…locals/international volunteers/travelers/ transient visitors/professionals/acquaintances/people who have become my dear friends….; shared ups and downs; lived through very steep learning curves in just about every aspect of my life; worked for and with amazingly committed people who have given their time and energies to help our beautiful SEGA girls and their families; immersed myself in the lives of these special girls and consequently overwhelmed by the warmth and unrestricted love always generously given by them; watched the school grow and the girls blossom as their confidence and knowledge gradually increased; hiked the Uluguru Mountains here at my back door and met many of the local village people living high and deep in their folds; travelled far and wide through Tanzania and often been hosted by other dedicated Tz Vols; experienced living amongst the locals; struggled to get a functional vocabulary and an understanding of Kiswahili and Tz communication norms and idiosyncrasies; accepted the inconsistencies in delivery of umeme (electricity) and enjoyed living by candlelight; realized that regular internet access is quite a luxury and so adopted the internet café as my office when ICT wasn’t possible;  felt  the excitement of receiving snail mail (even if it wasn’t addressed to me!) in our PO Box; lived the tropical climate: the inconveniences and lethargy that comes with the wet, humid seasons in a developing country (purchased some African boots.. Crocs…to be able to walk from my house to the bus and everywhere else when it’s wet!); been awakened to the Tz political challenges and resultant daily frustrations; experienced sadness at the loss of life and disability due to road chaos and general lack of basic health care and nutrition; learned to practice patience and tolerance in every hour of my day and night!!

My learning curve is still steep but I feel ready to take on the next phase of my commitment to assisting our beautiful young girls and those who contribute to improving their lives. …

Je, nitahisia mwaka kesho? I wonder what I will feel next year?

 Heading off to school @ 7am....only to miss the bus! Sablano, our bus driver is the only Tz who arrives at his destination early!!( ...No Dad...I was not running late!!)

How do I get to my house:

Daladala: "Shusha Whitie House"

Taxi/piki piki: "Naenda nyumba nyeupe, gatie nyekundu, Kihonda"....or they usually understand the English version if I say it really slowly... "Whitie house.. red gate, Kihonda!"

August.. Matunda na mboga bustani kwangu. My fruit & Veg garden.

I have been reaping the benefits of my fruit and veggie garden for a long time now but it was really exciting to crop my very first ever ndizi plant. Bananas grow plentiful but they are oh so sweet when one has planted them oneself ....watered, tended them....watched them grow and ripen....THEN...cropped and shared them!!
Mustafa had helped me understand which ndizi I had. Some plants were growing ndizi kupika, bananas to cook, and others ndizi chukula, eating bananas. the ones for eating ripened first but needed to be cut as a big bunch then stored to ripen. I waited over one week and finally when checking, I discovered they had turned yellow!

Chukula za asubuhi of ndizi pancakes the next morning tasted so sweet but what was even more exciting was taking them on the school bus and sharing them!

 Yustina with whom I first sit most mornings but then get surrounded by the others as they alight the bus!

Nasura

 Moonshine  (Non formal) Girls

 Kennedy Wilson

Shangwe

Since then ndizi chukula have been cooked by Mustafa and Kulwa into a traditional Tz dish. The first dish they cooked for me was spontaneously cooked by them to feed all my transient visitors one lunch time. Such a thoughtful and much appreciated offering by all of us!

 

 Catherine, Jen, Mattias, Liesbet, Sine, Bryan.